上海老城厢最红 OLD SHANGHAI

    老城厢这个地方,上海人叫“城隍庙”,上海人去那里看热闹,都说“去看城隍庙”,其实城隍庙只有小小的一点点, 老城厢里还有明朝园林“ 豫园”和茶楼,一些老年代的街巷,以前是有一道城墙围起来的。这片上海老城厢在市区东南,方圆不过七平方公里。
    和苏杭古城相比,上海老城厢也不老,七百来年的光景,三言两语就说过去了:上海在南宋年间建镇,明嘉靖年造了城墙,到了清朝,已号称“江海之通津,东南之都会”,九华里的环城圈内,汇集了各地的商人、商行。
    这片老上海的发祥地,也被本地人叫“南市”,因为当年洋人在城墙外的租界叫“北市”。那年代所有人都想在十里洋场发迹,围城里的老城厢受了冷落,只有人出去,没人进来,才能把这一点江南色彩的老地方留给上海。
    尽管城墙早就拆了,几条老街、一个豫园,还是招牌景点。豫园是明清风格,亭台楼阁极尽心思堆砌,曾经是沪上第一风流园林。
    在老城厢中心的城隍庙,供奉着华亭城隍,也保留明朝的格局,门前的老街市还是引人入胜的兴隆。此地一向是小商品集聚地;从前路边的小点心梨膏糖、鸡鸭血汤、广东鱿鱼、酒糟田螺、面筋百叶……留下来都成了老城厢的名点。
    说起来,老城厢里的寺庙观堂不止一家:道教的有白云观;佛教有沉香阁、慈修庵;伊斯兰教有小桃园清真寺、福佑路清真寺;基督教有清心堂;还有董家渡路天主堂;还有儒家的文庙。
  最出名的街叫方滨路,看名字最早可能是一条河,古代这里河流很多,都靠船运,后来慢慢修成了路,最近又修过了,改名叫做“上海老街”,路旁造起两层仿古建筑,想一展上海沧桑历史的片段。繁杂的小摊头一律装进了上下几个楼层的房子里,门面光鲜,照样生意红火。
露香园路和大境路交叉口的集市菜场,可能也是上海滩上最有本地风情的。如若花时间逛,在老城厢的小马路、小街里还可以拣出很多大上海的陈年旧
事。
  逢到假期,老城厢里总是人潮汹涌,除了外来人,还有上海人。飞舞檐角的老房子里面,到处人声,到处是大紫大红、很多金色、黄色、绿……这是本地人喜欢的热闹,和旺盛的“地气”。
    老城厢,是如今上海最中国的地方了。

Shanghainese refer to the Laochengxiang are as Chenghuang Miao (Old City Cod’s Temple). When they head there for some fun, they’ll say, “let’s go to Chenghuang Miao.” But actually, the temple is only a small part of Laochengxiang, which used to be enclosed by a wall. Inside you can find the Yuyuan gardens, which were built in the Ming Dynasty, teahouses and many old streets. Situated in the southeastern part of the city, Laochengxiang fills an area of about seven square kilometers.
Compared with old town Suzhou and Hangzhou, Laochengxiang is not very old, with a history of only about 700 years. Shanghai became a town during the Southern Song Dynasty with city walls erected during the Ming. In the Qing Dynasty, Shanghai was already fulfilling its promise as a wharf and urban center. Merchants and shops selling wares from all over gathered downtown, which was nine huali in circumference.
This birthplace of Shanghai was then called “South Market” by local residents, because outside the wall the foreign concessions were referred to as “North Market,” Since everyone dreamed of making their fortune there with the foreigners, Laochengxiang was given the cold shoulder with residents leaving and no one coming in. However, this fortunately helped to preserve the southern Chinese flavor of Shanghai.
Although the city walls were pulled down long ago, several ancient streets and the Yuyuan Gardens remain, well-preserved and still attracting visitors. Built in Ming-Qing style, Yuyuan used to be the most outstanding garden in Shanghai, with its delicate pavilions and exquisite towers.
In the heart of Laochengxiang, Chenghuang Temple is also a Ming-style building, dedicated to the Huating town god. In front of the gate, the old street does brisk business. It has always been a gathering point for buying and selling knickknacks. The snacks which first appeared in small shops along the street have grown famous, such as Ligaotang (a kind of candy), Chicken and Duck Blood Soup, squid from Guangdong, river snails pickled in wine, and more.
Religious edifices abound in this area: a Taoist temple Baiyunguan, two Buddhist temples, two mosques, a Christian church, a Catholic church, and even a Confucian temple.
The most famous street is Fangbin Road. Judging from the name, it was probably a river in ancient times. The surfeit of rivers here meant that local transportation used to depend mainly on boats and ships. Roads came later. And that is when this area changed its name to “Shanghai Old Street.” Traditional two-story buildings stand on both sides of the street, a snapshot of Shanghai’s history. Vendors have filled in the attractive buildings to conduct their flourishing businesses.
The open-air vegetable market at the intersection of Luxiangyuan Road and Dajing Road is possibly the best representative of typical local conditions and customs.
If you have time for a stroll, you can still discover buildings from the Song dynasty among the narrow lanes of Laochengxiang.
On holidays, Laochengxiang is always unbelievably crowded with Shanghainese as well as visitors. In those old houses, loud voices and bright colors are everywhere, red, gold, yellow, green...This hubbub and exuberance is what local residents love.
Nowadays, Laochengxiang is the most Chinese place in Shanghai.
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